Interestingly enough, photography actually has to do with lugging gear around at least 50% of the time.
In this post, I give you an insight on what I’m normally carrying around when heading for an assignment or shooting my educational stuff for my BLOG+.
I Am Nikon: Preface
I’m a Nikon shooter ever since. This actually came into being by coincidence. It was no conscious decision of mine at the time I started out – and that was over 20 years ago…
It happened during my time at the “Professional School for Fine Arts and Design” in Switzerland where I received my photography education.
Before that, as a teenager, I started to play with a Praktika, then later a Chinon with the first Autofocus. Useless.
But then, yes then, I fell in love with a black manual-focus Nikon FA (I could afford it that time). And shortly thereafter, the first ever useable AF: Nikon 801.
Over the years and decades I bought everything from manual lenses to autofocus to newer ones – and they always fitted to the newest Nikon bodies. That’s the big difference and advantage to Canon.
Sure some of my older lenses only work manually – but who cares. These are my special lenses like the 18mm that I now use for video recording with manual focus anyway.
The good thing is, I can buy specialized vintage lenses (30 years and older) and they are still usable with my newest DSLR. So I am happy with my clueless choice.
The Lugging Around At A Glance
Things shown here are in my bag for real, meaning all of them are stuffed in at once.
The only things that switched out every now and then are the long lens zooms, but basically that’s the gear that travels with me.
I also have additional equipment for creating my videos along with a bunch of small accessories, but these parts are selected on a case by case basis and therefore those have no place here.
The Bodies: Fullframe Nikons
Both, the Nikon D700 and D800 are greatly constructed, sealed and crafted. They are robust, flexible and reliable for my everyday jobs.
When producing educational material (e.g. for my BLOG+), I shoot stills with the D700 while the D800 is recording BTS footage (together with a GoPro Hero 3+).
When there is no need for video, I regularly use the D800 as the resolution (and AF) is just stunningly fantastic.
I really need to invest in a D610 body for video recording soon because using the D800 is simply a great and almost unforgivable waste of this high quality equipment.
- Nikon D700 FX & MB-D10 Grip
- Nikon D800 FX (Grip not yet bought…)
Lenses: Zooms & Primes
High quality zoom lenses are the ones I use for my productions most of the time. They are simply convenient when shooting models for there is no need of changing lenses and this in turn ensures that the production flow does not get interrupted. If I have a planned portrait sequence within a set, I change to my 85mm prime – other than that I keep shooting with my Sigma 24-70/2.8 or Nikon 80-200/2.8.
I would love to be the owner of a Nikkor AF 135mm/2.0 or a Nikkor AF 180mm/2.8. However, I still don’t have the necessary budget allocated for them just as of yet 🙂
As mentioned, the priority for my next investment is set on a D610 body so I’ll finally have a permanent video recording solution…
- Nikkor 18mm / 3.5
- Nikkor 50mm / 1.8
- Sigma IF EX DG HSM 24-70mm / 2.8
- Nikkor AF-ED S 24-85mm / 3.5-45.G
- Nikkor AF 85mm / 1.8D
- Nikkor AF-ED 80-200mm / 2.8
- Nikkor AF-ED VR ID 80-400mm / 45.-5.6D
- Filters: Hoya UV & ND
Speedlighting – My Weak Point
The hot shoe flash is one of my most neglected accessories because I probably only use this thing about 4 times a year.
I mainly use them at family gatherings or other non-job related events. I am no expert at all when it comes to working with these things, neither am I a big fan of these apparatuses. But maybe my negative attitude towards this equipment is simply based on fear because I do not precisely know how to handle them in a more effective and professional manner…
I definitely need to educate myself more in this field – yeah, I totally know it and I have been telling myself these exact words for a minimum of about 8 years by now…
(I know, I know…: Cousin Michael Zelbel with Boudoir & Speedlights explaining in depth these topics etc…)
- Metz 50 AF1
- old, foldable Lumiquest Promax Softbox
- Light meter: Sekonic Flashmate L-308B
- Gray Card (generic)
- Xrite Color Checker Passport
- Nikon Battery Charger MH-18a for D700 & 5 Nikon EN-EL3e original batteries
- Nikon Battery Charger MH-25 for D800 & 2 Nikon EN-EL15 original batteries and 4 Patona for EN-EL15
- CF: Silicon Power, 8GB only
- SD: SanDisk & NoName, 32GB
- flashlight (in abandoned buildings ‘on location’)
- ultra mini tripod (by Cullmann)
- Leatherman Multi-Tool
- generic card reader
- any USB stick
- adhesive plasters (when the flashlight breaks in an abandoned building ‘on location’…)
- my beloved Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 2014 Edition – the production tool as such
- …and a lens cleaning towel
- Manfrotto Veloce VII Backpack Black
Metering & White Balancing
A simple small light meter is accompanying me at all times. You never know… – but in 80% of the shoots I do not use it, lol.
Most important for me is (at least) the grey card as I do a lot of post-production for my glam/nude photography. To create top results one needs to work quite excessive in post to reach a great level. Everybody who abandons Photoshop and tells you it can be done right out of the camera (and then get straight into a magazine) is actually lying. I always do skin retouching, liquifying, color separations/corrections and more.
So, as already said, I use at least the grey card. However, a couple of years ago I started using a color checker as well which gives me many extra references for a more precise post production. Meanwhile it even evolved to my “must-have-tool” for an accurate color balance reference.
Staying Organized & Protected
Each one of my accessories is individually and neatly packed in normal food boxes. First of all because I like to have my things sorted and organized (helps me during hectic shoots) and secondly those little containers provide a great protection against moisture whenever I am working in the humid regions of this world, for example during my exciting time in the Philippines.
Power: Needs a Lot…
Especially the D800 consumes a lot of power in video-recording-mode! Unbelievable! But it is truly the reason why I had to buy a bunch of additional batteries. Yet not all of them are Nikon originals – they are just way too expensive. So I purchased a few 3rd party pieces and I’ve found them very reliable. However, you always want to stick to the original chargers! I once before made a bad experience with cheap Chinese junk used for another camera.
The Storage Cards
Not much to say about the cards I use: Solid but nothing spectacular. The 8GB CF’s for the D700, the SD 32s for video recording with D800.
Backups on set: Sometimes on my Toshiba Satellite Notebook or a borrowed MacBook Pro. Until now I never ever had any trouble with any card from any manufacturer. Knock on wood…
Triggering (and Optical Slaves)
I am triggering any kind of flashes with my good old, extremely reliable and robust PocketWizard Plus II. I just love that piece because of its big buttons and solid workmanship. Simplicity is key once again! The PocketWizard basically is a workhorse that’s perfect for turbulent productions.
Of course there are newer, smaller and cheaper brands out there that I once even used myself, but most of them are tiny fumbling pieces. My Wizards are on duty for about 10 years and I would not want to miss them one single day.
Additionally, there are some (high sensitive) optical slaves ready because sometimes the photo-detectors in my monoblocs are not sensitive enough to catch the initial flash.
Yes, I know, I should buy a few more Wizards – need to think about the Plus X series.
Other Tools & Helpers
And then there are all the small things that come in handy all the time (not necessarily in this order):
Last But Not Least: The Camera Bag Itself
Well, the bag is a backpack. And it’s a Manfrotto. Wait, a Manfrotto? Yes.
Manfrotto is famous for tripods – but bags? Yes, I can confirm they have some decent ones too.
I had (and have) Tamrac, Lowepro etc. but for the last three years I have used and traveled with my Manfrotto.
On flights it exactly fits into the overhead compartments of all carriers I fly with, yet I always receive complaints and have discussions about its actual weight with the crew onboard 😉
It’s durable, stable – and the most important feature for me: The zips for accessing the interior are on the back, not outside. That means no one can access (steal) my stuff when I carry my equipment on my back. That was one of the priority aspects when choosing my new companion.
How I Shot My Gear
Last but not least just a quick insight on how I shot my stuff. Done at home in the living room….
Hi Dan! Though I shoot Canon, my bag is filled very similarly. Do I understand correctly that you somehow get all 7 lenses in with all the rest of the gear? Or do you normally carry the 85, 24-70 and 80-200, swapping in others as needed?
Hello Dave, thanks for your comment and insights!
Yes, actually ALL that stuff is inside my bag.
The only thing I swap is the long zoom lens. I carry either the 80-200 or the 80-400; for both is not enough space and one is sufficient. Normally the 80-200 is with me 🙂
Best,
Dan
That’s an interesting Manfrotto bag, both in the amount of gear that it holds, and the way it zips from the back.
I have a Tamarac camera backpack that I like, that has a laptop compartment between the back and the cargo area on the front, that zips from the side. It doesn’t hold as much compared to yours, but then again I don’t own as many lenses, but I carry more speedlight gear than you do (because I don’t have an irrational fear of speedlights) .. just kidding! Thanks for showing us inside your bag.
Dana
Hey Dana,
my irrational fear of speedlight…lol. And true!
Thanks for sharing your insights! I am happy with my Manfrotto bag even it’s not the first brand that comes to mind when thinking about camera bags…- decision was fully based because of the zip’s position combined with the size.
Dan
Hello Dan!
Please give me more info, like the maker / distributor and brand name of those small size translucent storage boxes that you have gear neatly organized in!!! This is the product that I have been looking for to keep my camera batteries in, as well as the POCKET Wizards, so that the antennae don’t get all bent. I hope that they are available in the USA.
Thank You in advance for your response.
David K.
Chicago, Illinois USA
Hi David!
A similar brand of clear airtight containers I can recommend you which are available in the US, called Lock & Lock. You can purchase these boxes through Amazon.com. Here in the UK, it readily available from your local supermarket, online or even from shops that sell only kitchenware.
I hope if this helps.
http://www.amazon.com/Water-tight-Container-HPL805-0-7-Cup/dp/B00GWZ6I6C/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1398604308&sr=1-3&keywords=lock+%26+lock+containers
Hey David,
thanks a lot for your comment an question. I bought the boxes here locally in a common shopping mall yet Roy pointed to a very similar product – thanks for this Roy!
Theses boxes are great, available in different sizes, yet one thing you really would need to pay attention to are the closures. Like my boxes, the boxes get closed on the sides. So they really stay locked and are almost hermetically sealed.
Thanks for joining my BLOG+ and the journey here!
Best from Prague,
Dan
Hello Dan,
If ever you are in London on business or pleasure, do make an effort to visit this shop in Pimlico, victoria. This place would make your mouth water. Grays of Westminster for Nikons
http://www.graysofwestminster.co.uk/
…ohhh this looks terrific! Thanks for the tip Roy!
I will for sure visit this store next time I’m in the City 🙂
Hello Dan,
The link I’d have provided back in July about the Nikon dealer here in London, you will be over the moon. I won’t say anymore, because the surprise would be ruined. Enjoy!!!
http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/latest/photo-news/nikon-38299
Hello Roy,
what a GREAT story! Thanks for sharing! Just fantastic that dedication gets rewarded and honored 🙂
Superb!
HI Dan like you I have a lot of gear in fact its a complete mini studio in 2 tamrac bags. A expedition 5 and pro 12 the 5 is my shooting day bag carries Nikon D7000 and the lenses I need for the shoot and a Nikon 900 Speedlight and 2 pulsars. The pro12 carries the rest of the kit. 10 lenses 2 Nikon 900 Speedlight’s.2 light meters gels, filters batteries, leads etc. My favourite lens is the Nikon 24-120- f3.5-56 street sweeper and I tend to keep a Nikon J1 camera on me most of the time just encase Best regards Bryan in Somerset uk
Hey Bryan, thanks for providing your insights!
Man, you have a massive list of gear you are carrying around when taking both bags 🙂 Sound really like a well balanced and versatile choice!
Wishing you good shootings! And please remember: be invited to share your selected port with all of us here:
/reader-submitted-sexy-women-photography/
Best, Dan
Hey Dave,
Many thanx for sharing with us. I mainly shoot with Canon and work with a 550D and a 5D Mk3. I’m just starting out in photography however, so my list of equipment is not as impressive as yours. Aside from the obligatory SD and CF 8GB Memory Cards, spare batteries, wireless remote triggers and receivers, 5 speedlights, a Manfrotto tripod with 4-5 light stands, I have the following lenses to do my work:
1. EF 16-35mm f2.8 USM
2. 50mm f1.8
3. EF-S 18-135 f.3.5 – 5.6 IS
4. EF 100mm f2.8 IS II USM
5. EF 70-200 f2.8 IS USM
Like you, I am looking to invest in a second body to replace the 550D, most probably another 5D Mk3 and another lens, the EF 20-70 f2.8 USM. Once I have these, I will look into investing in some decent studio lights. I thank you for giving people like me the chance to participate and grow this passion into a fulfilling one.
Cheers!
/Marv
Hey Marv,
thanks for your list. I would say this is pretty impressive too!
Replacing the one body and you are absolutely perfect equipped 🙂
I am very glad you like the blog and topics here! Wishing you all the best on your journey and ask you to leave every know and then a few from your insights and probably even to participate with a free showcase in our community (/reader-submitted-sexy-women-photography/)
🙂
Best,
Dan
Aaargh! I got your name wrong, a thousand apologies Dan! Anyways, thank you for your reply. 😀
No worries Marv 🙂
Hi Dan,
I’m looking to get a bracket for my flash… I didn’t see one listed… Here is the one I’m looking at..
Custom Brackets Folding-T Flash Bracket
Also, I’m looking at the Nikon SC-29 TTL Off-Camera Shoe Cord with AF. Can you recommend that and
lastly, do you use any Nikon SJ-1 Color Filter Set for ambiance???
I have the D300, D3s and two- SB800 flash…
Thanks,
Hi Spence, thanks a lot for your comment, insights and question!
As I mentioned in this article I’m not the speed light shooter at all (yet). I perceive this pieces as scary but that’s just because I do not work with them on regular basis.
Now this does not mean I do not have an opinion or a bit of knowledge about the topic 🙂
1st question you might want to ask you is how much is the distance needed between your camera and the speedlight(s) when setting up the light. If it’s not that far (as your question for a bracket arm implies) – and if you want to shoot TTL – a TTl-cable like the SC-29 is fine.
Yet if the distance gets bigger (and the expensive cable gets short) you could go with radio TTL triggers like the “Wireless TTL Flash Trigger YN-622N” from Yongnuo or the equivalent from PocketWizard “MiniTT1-Nikon” (or other brands).
As for a foldable bracket arm: choose out of any that supports your need in size and flexibility. I do not have a specific brand in mind; just don’t buy the cheapest (workmanship & price) version of a Chinese “copy”.
After all the bracket has to carry very expensive SB800s 🙂
If you need a bit more inspiration and knowledge here’s a great course “Professional Looking Portraits with Off-Camera Flash” from my fellow photographer and friend Phil Steele: /go/offcameraflash
Or a great written, inexpensive ebook by professional shooter JimmyD: /go/locationflash
Hope this helps:)
Best, Dan
Thanks Dan,
I just got your first email lesson!!! Thanks.. Looking forward to reading your manuals and guides…
I’m actually getting into glamour photography. I shoot Body Building competitions so I have the ability to shoot Figure and Bikini competitors. These people are physically fit, but really have no idea how to pose. Since I’m typically outdoors, I wanted to shoot with light off the camera even though I use the sun as the key light. Just trying to mix it up…
Is there any way not to get the light reflection in the eyes by moving the light source??
Hi Spence, thanks for your comment and background story. Great you get started with 101!
I’m not entirely sure I understand “light reflection in the eyes by moving the light source”. If I get it right…: to have catch lights/reflections in the eyes the light must hit the subject mainly from the frontal direction in relation to the face and in an axis that’s not too high (assuming the subject is not looking into the skies).
If you are outdoor the easiest solution is to shoot with the off-camera flash near to your camera, gunned towards the subject (assuming the subject is looking towards the camera). Just take care that the flash is really only acting as fill-in, this is strong enough for catch lights (daylight situation). If you get too strong the lighting starts to look weird/artificial. But like this you have the catch-light-producer near to you & under control (except you are 20 meters away from the subject).
Second possibility is to use a (5in1)-disc reflector to bounce back the sun light (or a separate flash) to fill-in the parts (upper body = eyes) you need.
I hope that’s what you are looking for?
Have a good start into your journey with glamour photography!
Best, Dan
Thanks Dan,
I’ve seen some Pro shots of models where the eyes are well lite, but I see no reflection in their eyes. I don’t know if they are using reflector or some other tools. I thought I could illuminate the face with light off to the side so the light isn’t sticking their face directly, but still separating the pupil and the eye balls. Is that possible or will the eyes balls pick up all light??
Creativelive.com just had 5 days of photo techniques, shooting, lighting, DIY, flashes, boudoir and other topics.
I learned that I need to know more :).
Lindsley Adler was superb on posing and lighting.
Spence
Hi Spence,
If you want to really get your speed light farther away from the camera and still use the TTL metering function, and put it on a light stand, take a look at these cables from Flash Zebra. http://www.flashzebra.com/ttlcords/ittlcords/index.shtml
I have the 5 meter cable for Canon, and use it a lot when shooting outdoors with the flash on a lightweight stand with a small collapsible soft box. It’s a cheaper and more reliable option for OCF than TTL radio triggers (I tried the Pocket Wizard TTL radio trigger, and was very disappointed… sold them on eBay).
You can see some examples of this technique in a past article on Dan’s site. The outdoor portraits and bikini shots used this OCF cable and a Canon speed light. Some are shot in ETTL flash mode and some are in manual mode. The nice thing is that you can make adjustments to the flash remotely from the camera.
/photographer-interviews/asked-dana-manner-sexy-miami-glamour-nudes
Hope this is helpful…
Regards,
Dana
Dear Dan I recently purchased an the Nikon two touch 80-200 if ED lend for portrait and out side model shoots I was tempted to go for 70-200mm but I thought the difference between them is small the 80 was better price. But now im filled with a question did I make the a good choice. as now I have the trinity be it a 80-200mm not a 70-200 mm I would value your opinion. Bryan@Redsquarephotography
Dear Bryan, thanks for your comment, insights and question.
First, both lenses are excellent in sharpness & built quality. Both lenses have an IF (internal focusing) design so the front element does not rotate so using a polarizer (or other filters) is no problem.
The Nikkor AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8 IF-ED is cleary the older lens (1st time released in 1998) and it was the first zoom lens that featured the then new sonic wave driven autofocus.
The AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II is the latest generation and ultra-fast (silent-wave ultrasonic). The AF motor providing extremely fast and near-silent AF operations.
Now as always (in my opinion) it’s about the usage of a lens. When you shoot models (even catwalks and even in bad light conditions) the 80-200 will do great. If you go for sports and darn fast action, the 70-200 would probably be more accurate.
But considering the official price tags: 80-200 (1,224.95 USD) compared with 70-200 (2,399.95 USD) and the main usage for model photography I think you made an excellent choice!
I still use the very old Nikkor AF-ED 80-200mm / 2.8 without “S” (ultra sonic AF) and this is really to slow for moving models… – I need to upgrade soon but I think I am not willing to spend 2400 USD 🙂
Hope this helps you to remain confident that you did the right choice.
Best from Prague,
Dan
PS: Thanks for attaching your work here! Excellent!
Hi Dan,
I just signed up yesterday so still waiting for my first lesson. I found your article very interesting. I’m just getting back into photography after a very long break. I have just purchased a Pentax K-30 DSL (it’s a good entry level DSL). In the past a used both a Minolta X700 manual and an old Pentax Super ME. At the moment my lenses are only a 18-55mm standard lens and a 55-300mm zoom.. Yeah I know lol. I also have the obligatory UV filters as well as a decent amount of Cokin filters that I still had from long ago
In the coming weeks I am planning to purchase a speed light as well as some other lighting equip. ie. umbrellas etc.
I enjoy a variety of photographic styles ranging from special effects through glamour/nudes so my equipment will eventually include many different lenses and lighting equipment.
I am looking forward to receiving my first lesson and start to add to the skills that I have.
Hi Kurt,
thanks for signing up and commenting!
Well zoom lenses are not bad at all. Sometimes they lack in sharpness and a prime is also not bad to force our self to move… – but a zoom is a good selection as well.
Let me know what speedlights/brand you’ve chosen once you get them. Would be interesting to know.
Also feel free to share some of your pics in the comment sections of the posts that fit the topic. People really love the additional inputs and approaches on the subject.
Wish you all the best on your journey and we cross paths here on BLOG+ 🙂
Best,
Dan
Dan, where did you get the labels for your storage boxes?
Hi Budd, the labels are hand made, created in PowerPoint and printed on blank white sticker papers.
Like this I have the possibility to customize my labels according to my needs 🙂
Best from Prague, Dan
Hi Dan – nice to see that you stick as well on Nikon 🙂
I’m a Nikonioan as well – starting with the FT2, F70, D70, D300 – I just upgraded my D800 to D810, which is a big value add in terms of noise reduction and low light conditions (weddings, etc.).
My most favourite lenses are the 85mm/1,8 , both D and G version – extraordinance performance, sharp and great bokeh !!!
But I am using the new Tamron Zoom lenses 24-70 mm and 70 – 200 mm instead of Nikon lenses, because they perform at least at the same level and are far cheaper.
Normally I have the SB-900 in my bag, but I have invested now also in a Jinbei 600 HD II flash for portable use with a foldable Beauty Dish – which are working great outdoors …
I like your blog very much and I’m looking forward to see more shooting & lighting tips from you … to improve my work.
Best regards from Germany und ein Gruezi nach Prag – Jürgen
Guten Tag Jürgen,
thanks a lot for your insights – very helpful! I am very glad that you’re happy with your Tamron.
As for my Sigma 24-70 I must admit that I am somewhat disappointed with the quality after shooting now for a while. Sharpness with open aperture is just not good. I often fall back now to use my manual prime lenses just to be sure having a sharp image when working with shallow depth of field.
Wishing you good shoots ahead!
Liebe Grüsse von Prag,
Dan
Hi Dan … what I forgot to ask is, what Do you mean with ‘the production tool as such’ for your Samsung tablet?
Can you please explain?
Best regards Juergen
Jürgen, I use use my tablet for all kind of tasks related to an actual shoot:
1) Posing ideas stored for remembering the basic setup ideas (and talk to the model on the set about).
2) If we have a bunch of sets planned and a very tight schedule I load my prepared lighting setups onto the tablet.
3) Communication with team, schedule etc for the actual shoot is stored there.
4) During the shoot I use it sometimes for controlling images (light, styling, mistakes) via a tethered WiFi setup.
The screen is just much bigger than a smart phone’s one – that’s why I very much like my tablet.
And as I am not a an Apple guy at all, it’s a Samsung pad for this tasks,
Best,
Dan
Dan – thanks for your insight.
I’ve never done a tethered shooting as such – because I’m the opinion it reduces the attention to the model. And for me it is key to keep the connection between me and the model at highest level and not to walk away to the computer/laptop.
As I am usually shooting RAW to one card and Basic Jpeg to the other slot, I load the small Jpegs in a break to my laptop to have a look together with the model to the pics and maybe preselect already some good ones …
Maybe it would be good idea if you are going to make a ‘making of’ video showing your workflow during and after the shoot … including your use of the Tablet and tethered shooting ???
And let me also make a comment to the use of prime lenses – I own a Nikon 1,4 50mm and the 1,8 85 mm – I love my 85 mm (sharp and crisp at 1,8), but the 50 mm starts to be really sharp at 2,8 …. 🙁
Using open aperture at 1,4 will produce slushy pictures (no front- or backfocus) – so I call it my ‘David Hamilton’ lens .. 😉
Best regards und Grüße nach Prag – Jürgen
Thanks for your Insights. I to use the Nikon D700 & D800 with a wide range of lenses. Tamron 16mm fisheye f2.8, Nikon 18-50mm f2.8, Nikon 24-70mm f2.8, Nikon 50mm f1.8, Nikon 85mm f1.8, Nikon 105mm f2.8, Tamron 70-200mm f2.8, plus the two kit lenses that came with the D700 that gather dust unused and unloved by me. I’ve 2 backpacks, 1 shoulder bag and the S&F belt, body harness and numerous pouches. All all have the jobs to do but my Manfrotto backpack takes it all including one of my four flashguns and my mini pocket wizard kit. I’m a wedding, portrait and boudoir photographer based in Blackpool. UK.
Dear All.
In error to my earlier message reference what was in my camera bag.
My other lenses are Sigma’s not Tamron’s or whatever it was I’d written.
I do have my own studio and I’ve been a working Pro since September 2012, but been taking images since childhood and had digital DSLR’s since 2006.
I started with what I could afford, which back then was a Sony Alpha 100, as you can see things have moved on since then.
I’ll never work with any other make of camera for Weddings, Portraiture & Boudoir as it’s more realistic in getting skin tones correct and I love the D800 sensor size at 36 MB for my close up wedding details.
I still work with models and newbie’s from time to time to help them or to complete one of my own protects working at TF, but I’m gaining recognition locally to have enough paid work coming in to continue living the life I wished for, for many years. It isn’t an easy path to take but it’s certainly worthwhile and there’s no more stress in my life from working for other people, clients come to me as they like what I do, so I just have to keep on doing it the way I want, where’s the stress in that. The added image was from my very first studio shoot with a model using my Sony A100. Not bad for my first attempt all those years ago. I’ll put up more recent one’s if people wish to see any more.
Hey Mark,
Thank you so much for your detailed insight and the photo – really great!
1) What do you think about the new Sony mirror-less line up (A7?)
2) Yes please attach a few more sexy images here 🙂
Best from Prague to Blackpool!
Dan
I have always liked Sony’s idea of mirrorless DSLR’s and other have finally started to follow their example.
The A7 looks great, but I won’t go back to Sony due to the expense of the Pro Level Lenses compared to others as well as the lack of range.
Sorry Sony….
I’ve added another image from a first time Glamour shoot for this lady. She has done some portrait posing for a friend with camera, but contacted me and booked a Mother & Son Portrait shoot. She loved what I did and asked to come back to do something a bit more saucy for herself she wanted to know if she had it in her so to speak. I was happy to accept the commission and last Saturday we did a studio shoot for two hours. Started clothed and took her to near naked, skimpy knickers. She did very well for a first timer and thoroughly enjoyed herself. Coaching was needed with some gentle persuasion of course. She’s loved the images and wanted to do more so I’ve recruited her as my MUSE for Glamour & Nude for me. I’m really looking forward to this new working relationship hoping to really be able to concentrate more on lighting and photography in slow time, rather than the rush of a client shoot trying to squeeze as much in as possible in the time they’ve given me. I’d like to email a few more if that’s ok, any critique is accepted, if it’s as intended, to help me improve. If I hadn’t made a recent purchase from you, I doubt it would have been as good as it was. At least if the client likes it, that helps a great deal.
Sincerely Mark.
Hi Mark, thanks for sharing the second shot!
I am happy you found a like-minded person to collaborate on that subject! That’s sometimes hard to find and it’s worthwhile to progress as a team.
Great you found some insights, inspiration and blueprint material in my training and posts – that’s good to hear; a steepening incentive 🙂
Sure, send me some photos per email. I gladly will have a look on and will send you a feedback.
Best,
Dan
Dear all,
after many years of buying&selling stuff I considered to stay light (maybe this is also relevant to the age going on…)
I don’t like zooms, usually heavier than primes, so in my bag remained just this:
Nikon D750, Nikkor 105/2.0 DC, Nikkor 50/1.4 AFD, Zeiss Distagon 28/2.0
Leica M9, Summicron 90/2.0 Apo, Summilux 35/1.4 Aspherical (amazing the out of focus, see the pics)
Nikon SB-900
sometimes a Gitzo carbon fiber tripod with an Arca Swiss B1 ball head.
Other stuff available that usually stays at home:
Nikkor 400/5.6, Nikkor 180/2.8 AFD, Micro Nikkor 105/2.8 AF, Zeiss Distagon 18/3.5
Well Aldo, this sounds like a fantastic selection of gear! I guess you get all the situations covered.
Thanks for sharing an image. Very nice shot, sensual implemented. Keep going to share some of your work!
Consider to submit a selection and inspire the community here: /submit-photos-and-content/
Best,
Dan
What is the cheapest but effective gadget i can purchase with about $500 since i am a rookie but still got the passion for photography. Do you recommend getting refurbished gadgets as i am not able to purchase off the shelf.
Hey Owula,
Thanks for reading and your question.
What specific function should “a gadget” have, what do you mean by “gadget”? Camera, lens, lighting, accessories – or an additional goodie?
Refurbished gear: I bought a few lenses and monolight strobes refurbished. Either on Ebay or with my local dealer. I always had a good experience and no troubles with that gear.
Refurbished gear is for sure a good alternative!
Best,
Dan
Hello from Cancun Mexico. a question: what program you use on your tablet Samsung to record your photos live and direct?
Hello Héctor,
Thanks for your question.
Shooting tethered with an android is a bit an unsatisfying thing! Up to day I am not really happy with any solution I tried/tested in combination Nikon/Samsung Pad 2014 Edition.
The thing is that I want to have an app where I can select to transfer ONLY JPGs as a preview to the tablet. RAW files just take to long. When shooting with a cable & laptop the speed is quite OK. But tablet & WiFi: Unusable!
So here are a few apps (cable/WiFi) but none of them are really convincing.
1) App – http://dslrcontroller.com/ (Canon only)
2) Helicon Remote – http://www.heliconsoft.com/heliconsoft-products/helicon-remote/ (control your camera)
3) Eyefi Mobi WiFi SD – http://www.eyefi.com/products/mobi-pro – https://goo.gl/or6SsU
4) Cam Ranger (expensive) – http://camranger.com/features/
5) App (q)DslrDashboard -http://dslrdashboard.info/
6) More droid apps in the jungle: https://play.google.com/store/search?q=tethered%20shooting&c=apps
YOUR HELP NEEDED. To all folks out there, you probably have an idea. I am looking for the following solution:
1) Nikon <> Android Tablet
2) WiFi Tethered (not Cam Ranger, to expensive)
3) Transfering JPGs ONLY (I shoot RAW + JPG)
4) No need of fancy camera control. Just a simple wireless JPG transfer from DSLR to droid tablet that is fast and reliable. It’s a preview tool, not a high-res super-fancy-mega-controlled remote-retouching-NASA-thing.
I already thought to let program a customized simple app. Any help is most appreciated…
Sorry for being not able to deliver a satisfying answer/solution out of the box. But after years of experience and NOT working with (i)OS shows that Android platform is not great for photographers… (which comes with no surprise…)
Many greetings from Prague to Cancun!
Dan
Reading in your article:
“Everybody who abandons Photoshop and tells you it can be done right out of the camera (and then get straight into a magazine) is actually lying”
For what I’m seeing at Wikipedia, Photoshop was created in 1988 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adobe_Photoshop
The image I’m attaching is apparently from the 50s. I don’t know if it has been restored digitally with Photoshop, but the way it does look is about perfect to me.
((Dan admin note: I had to remove the image due to potential copyright troubles. Readers: Find the example here on Google so you see what we talk about: https://goo.gl/vGyBUO))
Hi Rodrigo,
Thanks a lot for reading and your comment. Also thanks for uploading an example photo here. This one I had unfortunately to remove because of copyright reasons. Instead I placed a link to Google’s image search repository so readers can follow the discussion & argumentation here.
You are absolutely correct that Photoshop is a recent invention (related to 170 years of photography) – yet that does not mean that before computer aided tools made life easier (and sometimes absurd), there was no manipulation (= retouching, D&B etc). Manipulation started right away photography was actually invented. Also retouching & optimizing were regular practices (all the more when Hollywood started to “create their stars” in the 30ies…)
*******************
A small selection of reading for everybody interested:
“Wikipedia:”
“Before computers, photo manipulation was achieved by retouching with ink, paint, double-exposure, piecing photos or negatives together in the darkroom, or scratching Polaroids. Airbrushes were also used, whence the term “airbrushing” for manipulation . Darkroom manipulations are sometimes regarded as traditional art rather than job related skill. In the early days of photography, the use of technology was not as advanced and efficient as it is now. Results are similar to digital manipulation but they are harder to create”. – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photo_manipulation
*******************
“1930s Wrinkle Retouching / ’40s & ’50s Pin-ups / Soft Focus”
http://www.bustle.com/articles/59161-old-photoshop-from-the-30s-40s-50s-and-60s-prove-weve-been-altering-womens-bodies-for
*******************
“Beauty Retouching from the Early 1900s: A Portrait of Actress Joan Crawford That’s ‘Photoshopped’”
http://petapixel.com/2014/10/17/beauty-retouching-early-1900s-portrait-actress-joan-crawford-thats-photoshopped/
*******************
“Even classic Hollywood stars were basically Photoshopped”
http://hellogiggles.com/classic-hollywood-photoshop/
*******************
“Manipulation Techniques: 1850s-1950s Photoshop before Photoshop”
http://mashable.com/2015/02/19/before-photoshop/
*******************
Abridgement from “The Old Way Of Photo Retouching From The 1940’s/”1946 book called Shortcuts to Photo Retouching For Commercial Use”
http://mashable.com/2015/02/19/before-photoshop/
https://fstoppers.com/post-production/old-way-photo-retouching-1940s-3327
*******************
Best,
Dan
PS: I am very sure that the photo of Gina Lollobrigida you posted in your comment is “manipulated” too. Even it’s a before-Photoshop job. Hey, it’s Gina, an international sex symbol at that time and the photo is clearly a promotional one (either for her image or a movie. Or both). Whether herself nor any PR/Press-Agent that time would have tolerated to publish a shot SOOC.
If we observe the carefully arranged lighting, styling. make-up & hair, soft, ‘glowy’ skin (!) – no way that there was no post involved afterwards.
Hello and good evening. I just join and looking forward to learning everything about photographing boudoir/ fine art models. My camera bag is similar also:
Camera Body:
Nikon D700 FX
Nikon D3 FX
(planning on getting a Nikon D800 in the near future)
Lenses:
Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8
Sigma 24-70mm 1:2.8
Sigma 70-200mm 1:2.8
Sigma 85mm 1:1.4
Lights:
(2) Nikon SB600
(1) Nikon SB800
Memory:
(2) 8GB CF cards
(2) 4GB CF cards
(2) CF card SD adapters
(4) 16GB SD cards
Macbook Pro with Adobe CC
Vanguard Carbon Tripod
Manfotto Mono Pod
Hello Micheal, thanks a lot for signing up, tuning in and your detailed equipment list.
Very interesting and basically the same configuration like mine – yet I need to update the speedlights section here as I invested last year in my portable power flashes…:
http://photoblog.studioprague.com/photo-light/walimex-portable-lighting-kit-glamour-photography
D800: Meanwhile you get refurbished bodies for a bargain. I never regret upgrading my 700 to an 800.
Mainly because of the video features that time. I still stick to my 800, no need for something new.
See you around & best,
Dan
Hello and good evening. I just join and looking forward to learning everything about photographing boudoir/ fine art models. My camera bag is similar also:
Camera Body:
Nikon D700 FX
Nikon D3 FX
(planning on getting a Nikon D800 in the near future)
Lenses:
Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8
Sigma 24-70mm 1:2.8
Sigma 70-200mm 1:2.8
Sigma 85mm 1:1.4
Lights:
(2) Nikon SB600
(1) Nikon SB800
Memory:
(2) 8GB CF cards
(2) 4GB CF cards
(2) CF card SD adapters
(4) 16GB SD cards
Macbook Pro with Adobe CC
Vanguard Carbon Tripod
Manfotto Mono Pod